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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee well-known award-winning venues. Yet, tucked high among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m utterly astonished,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their modest place earning such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its former character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this eatery more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary triumph.